Young Homegrown Stars Injecting Fresh Energy into the Island's Food Scene
With its dramatic, rugged mountain panorama, curving roads and ever-changing weather, the Isle of Skye has always drawn lovers of the wild. During the past ten years, however, the most expansive island in the Inner Hebrides has been attracting visitors for additional factors – its vibrant food and drink scene. Leading the way are up-and-coming Sgitheanach (people from Skye) with a international perspective but a commitment to regional, environmentally conscious ingredients. It’s also the result of an involved community eager to create rewarding, permanent jobs that encourage young people on the island.
An Enthusiasm for Local Produce
Calum Montgomery is raised on Skye, and he’s deeply committed to highlighting the island’s larder on his menus. “When visitors arrive on Skye I want them to value the landscape, but also the superiority of our produce,” he says. “The local seafood including mussels, lobster, scallops and crab are the best available.” He reflects on history: “It means everything to me to use the same ingredients as my forebears. My granddad was a shellfish harvester and we’re experiencing shellfish from the exact same sea lochs, with the identical reverence for ingredients.”
His Island Flavors menu details the distances his ingredients has travelled. Patrons can feast on fat scallops hand-dived in Loch Greshornish (no distance), and trapped in creels lobster from the island's capital (a short distance) with greens, foraged herbs and blossoms from the garden from the restaurant's plot and seashore (hyper-local). This link to produce and growers is crucial. “Last week I took a junior cook out with a diver harvesting scallops so he could learn what they do. We prepared scallops directly from the sea and ate them raw with a squeeze of lemon. ‘This is the finest scallop I’ve ever eaten,’ he said. This is exactly what we want to bring to the restaurant.”
Culinary Ambassadors
Traveling in a southerly direction, in the presence of the imposing Cuillin mountains, an additional culinary ambassador for Skye, an innovative restaurateur, manages a bustling café. Recently the chef represented Scotland at a renowned international gastronomic gathering, presenting seafood sandwiches with Scotch-flavored spread, and innovative local dishes. Her venture began her café in another location. Coming back to Skye during the pandemic, a temporary events proved there was a demand here too.
Over a signature creation and mouthwatering citrus-marinated fish, the chef shares: “I take great pride that I established in a major city, but I was unable to accomplish what I can do here. Sourcing quality produce was a huge mission, but here the scallops come directly from the water to my door. My creel fisherman only speaks to me in the traditional tongue.” Her passion for Skye’s ingredients, locals and environment is evident across her colourful, innovative dishes, all infused with regional tastes, with a touch of traditional heritage. “The link to local traditions and language is so important,” she says. Patrons can use educational materials on the tables to discover a basic terms while they eat.
Many of us had jobs off the island. We observed the goods arrive a long way from where it was caught, and it’s simply inferior
Blending Old and New
The island's established culinary spots are continuing to evolve. A charming inn managed by a local family in her historic residence has long been a foodie destination. The family matriarch authors popular books on traditional recipes.
The chefs regularly introduces new ideas, with a vibrant emerging talent headed by an talented kitchen leader. When they’re away from the stoves the chefs nurture seasonings and flavorings in the hotel growing space, and forage for native plants in the landscaped areas and sea herbs like seaside vegetation and scurvygrass from the water's edge of a nearby loch. In the fall they follow animal paths to find fungi in the woods.
Patrons can sample local scallops, Asian greens and legumes in a delicious stock; Shetland cod with Scottish asparagus, and house-smoked lobster. The hotel’s outdoor guide takes guests out for activities including wild food gathering and catch-and-release trips. “There is significant demand for hands-on opportunities from our visitors,” says the hotel representative. “Visitors desire to come and really get to know the island and the terrain.”
Beyond the Kitchen
The distilling sector is also helping to retain the younger generation on Skye, in careers that last beyond the peak tourism months. An operations manager at a island whisky producer notes: “Aquaculture was a major source of jobs in the past, but now most of the jobs are mechanized. Real estate values have risen so much it’s challenging for the youth to live here. The whisky industry has become a really important employer.”
“Jobs available for aspiring distillers” was the advertisement that a then 21-year-old local woman saw in her community newspaper, landing her a job at the whisky producer. “I decided to try,” she says, “It was surprising I’d get a role in manufacturing, but it was a personal goal.” The employee had an fascination with whisky, but no formal training. “The chance to learn on the job and learn online was incredible.” Today she is a senior distiller, assisting in teaching new distillers, and has recently created her personal blend using a specialty malt, which is developing in oak during the visit. In larger producers, that’s an recognition usually given to seasoned veterans. The tasting room and coffee shop hire many people from around the nearby region. “We integrate with the community because we brought the community here,” says a {tour guide manager|visitor experience lead|hospital